Ribera del Duero

Ribera del Duero: the home of Tempranillo

If Rioja is the friendly face of Spanish Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero is the intense one. Grown on a high, harsh plateau where days are hot and nights cold, the same grape makes darker, denser, more powerful reds, and Spain's single most famous wine, Vega Sicilia, comes from here. It is the place to taste what altitude and extremes do to a familiar grape.

The wines

Tempranillo, locally called Tinto Fino, makes deep, structured reds with firm tannin and dark fruit. The wines range from approachable young bottlings to long-aged Reserva and Gran Reserva built to last for decades.

Where to go

The region runs along the Duero river east of Valladolid. Aranda de Duero makes a practical base, surrounded by both grand estates and small traditional cellars dug into the hillsides. Many bodegas welcome visitors by appointment.

Eat

This is roast-lamb country. Lechazo, milk-fed lamb roasted in a wood oven, is the regional dish, and the powerful reds were made to go with it.

Getting there

Fly into Madrid, then drive about two hours north. Valladolid has fast train links from Madrid and works as a city base, with a car for the vineyards.