Piedmont

Piedmont: the home of Nebbiolo

Piedmont is where Nebbiolo makes Barolo and Barbaresco, two of the longest-lived reds in the world. The grape is pale and deceptively light to look at, then hits with tannin, acid and a perfume of roses, tar and dried cherry. If you want to understand why some reds are built to age for decades, start here.

The wines

Barolo is the powerful one, Barbaresco the slightly softer sibling, both pure Nebbiolo from neighbouring villages. For everyday drinking, Barbera gives juicy acidity and Dolcetto easy fruit, while the hills around Asti make sweet, lightly fizzy Moscato.

Where to go

Alba is the hub, ringed by the Langhe hills and their fog-prone vineyards. The villages of Barolo, La Morra and Barbaresco are minutes apart, each with cellars to visit and a castle or tower for the view. Autumn brings the white truffle, and the Alba truffle fair with it.

Eat

Piedmont eats richly: tajarin pasta with butter, veal in tuna sauce, and in season, shavings of white truffle over everything. Nebbiolo's acidity is built to cut through it.

Getting there

Fly into Turin or Milan, then drive about an hour to Alba. A car is the easiest way to move between the hill villages, which sit close together but are poorly served by public transport.