Three days in Tuscany

Day one. Chianti Classico, the spine.

Morning. Drive the SR222, the Chiantigiana, south from Florence through Greve. Stop at the Greve square for coffee and the butcher Falorni, in business since 1729 and an education in finocchiona by itself. Afternoon. One booked estate visit between Greve and Panzano. Look for the Gallo Nero, the black rooster, and ask them to pour an annata next to a riserva. Evening. Dinner in Panzano. Bistecca alla fiorentina and a Chianti Classico, the pairing this whole region is the argument for.

Day two. Deeper Chianti, slower roads.

Morning. South through Castellina and Radda, hill towns built for war and now employed full time being beautiful. Afternoon. A second estate, smaller this time, where the owner pours and the dog supervises. Buy the olive oil too; it is the same hills in a different bottle. Evening. Dinner in Radda or Gaiole. Order the ribollita and stop pretending you are not on holiday.

Day three. Montalcino, the serious south.

Morning. Ninety minutes south to Montalcino, where Sangiovese drops the blend and goes solo as Brunello. The fortezza's enoteca lets you taste across producers under medieval stone. Afternoon. One booked Brunello estate just outside the walls. Taste the Rosso di Montalcino beside the Brunello, the young sibling and the patriarch, and feel what two extra years of patience buys. Evening. Sunset from the walls, dinner in town, and the drive or the night in Montalcino. You will plan the return trip before the plates are cleared.

Know before you go

When to go. May, June, September and October. Harvest is late September into October and the light goes golden; August is hot and crowded.

Getting there. Fly to Florence or Pisa. A car is non-negotiable, and the smaller the better for the estate driveways.

How many days. Three for Chianti and Montalcino. A week if you add Montepulciano and the coast, which you will want to.

The estates. Book one to two weeks ahead. Tastings run 15 to 40 euros, often with food, often with the family. Lunch bookings at estates are the best value fine dining in Italy.

The mistake first timers make. Tasting without eating. Sangiovese is built for the table; judge it on an empty stomach and you will misjudge the whole region.

Drink it before you go

A Chianti Classico annata. The black rooster's everyday wine, cherry and dust and dinner.

A Rosso di Montalcino. Brunello's younger sibling and the smartest value in the region.

A Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The third Sangiovese town, gentler than both, criminally overlooked.

Tuscany is one of twelve places in The Grape Atlas. Learn it in five minutes, free.